Clean it off first
You cannot trace a leak through weeks of accumulated oil and dirt. Clean the area, run the machine briefly, then look again. This one step saves more diagnostic time than anything else.
Troubleshooting
Where the puddle is tells us most of it.
A hydraulic leak is fluid escaping under pressure near a hot engine, and a slick spot on a floor where people walk. Find where it is coming from, note what it does when the mast moves, and call before it turns into a bigger repair.
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Start Here
Owners tend to treat a hydraulic leak as a housekeeping problem: put a drip tray under it, top it up on Fridays, deal with it when things quiet down. The fluid is the least of it. Hydraulic systems run at pressures high enough that a pinhole leak produces a fine spray rather than a drip, and that spray near an exhaust manifold is a genuine fire risk.
There is also the floor. Hydraulic fluid on concrete is one of the more effective ways to put somebody on their back, and it spreads further than the puddle you can see.
And a leak is a symptom of something. Hoses do not usually fail because they got old on their own. They fail because they were rubbing on something, because a fitting was loose, or because the fluid inside cooked. Fixing the hose without finding the reason is how the same repair happens twice.
Locate The Source
Do this with the engine off and the forks down. Never run a hand along a hose looking for a leak while the system is under pressure, because fluid at that pressure will go through skin.
You cannot trace a leak through weeks of accumulated oil and dirt. Clean the area, run the machine briefly, then look again. This one step saves more diagnostic time than anything else.
Under the mast, under the middle of the machine, or at the back. Front puddles point at lift cylinders, mast hoses and the carriage. Central and rear puddles point at the pump, tank, valve and their lines.
Raise and lower the mast a few times, from a safe distance, and see whether the rate changes. A leak that only appears when the mast is up is in a part of the circuit that is only pressurized then.
Look at the exposed chrome rods on the lift and tilt cylinders. A wet rod with a ring of oil at the seal is a cylinder seal leaking. Pitting or scoring on that rod is why.
Cracking, chafing, bulging, or a shiny worn patch where a hose has been rubbing on the mast or the frame. Wetness at a fitting rather than along the hose is a different fix.
Read it with the mast fully lowered on level ground. Knowing how much you have actually lost tells us whether this is a weep or something serious.
Treat the answer as no until it has been looked at. That is not caution for its own sake. A leak means the level is dropping while you work, and low hydraulic fluid causes aeration, which damages the pump. So the cheap repair you were putting off turns into an expensive one on its own schedule.
Add the fire risk and the slip risk and there is not much of a case for running it out for another week. If it genuinely has to move to get somewhere safe, move it and park it, do not carry on working it.
The exception nobody should rely on is the slow weep at a fitting that has been there for years and never moved. Even that is worth a proper look, because a fitting that weeps is a fitting that is not doing its job.
Hoses, and specifically hoses that have been rubbing. The mast is full of movement and the hoses that run up it flex thousands of times a day. A hose with a shiny worn patch has been telling you for months.
Cylinder seals, which show as a wet rod and a ring of oil at the gland. Resealing is often possible, but only if the rod is still smooth. A pitted or scored rod chews new seals and the honest answer there is replacement.
Fittings, which loosen with vibration, and the pump shaft seal, which shows as fluid at the front of the pump. And on older machines, the tank itself, usually at a weld or a fitting rather than through the metal.
Get the fluid off the floor properly rather than spreading it around with a mop. Absorbent granules, then a degreaser. A thin film of hydraulic oil is more slippery than the puddle it came from.
Dispose of used fluid and soaked absorbent the way your operation is supposed to. Hydraulic fluid is not something to pour down a yard drain, and a leak that reaches a storm drain becomes a much bigger problem than a forklift repair.
A Few Straight Answers
Describe where it drips and we can usually tell you what it is before we arrive.
Call 843-920-6959Treat it as no until it is looked at. Fluid under pressure near a hot engine is a fire risk, on the floor it is a slip risk, and the falling level will damage the pump. None of those improve with time.
Topping up hides the symptom while the cause carries on. And if you are topping up regularly you are losing enough fluid that the level is dropping during shifts, which is when aeration damages the pump.
Almost certainly. A wet rod with a ring of oil at the gland is a leaking cylinder seal. The question that decides the repair is whether the rod itself is still smooth or has become pitted.
Whatever your manufacturer specifies for that machine. Mixing types, or using something because it was on the shelf, causes seal and viscosity problems that outlast the leak. If you are not sure, call and tell us the model.
That narrows it usefully. It means the leak is in a section of the circuit that is only pressurized when lifting, which points at the lift cylinders, the mast hoses, or the lift section of the valve.
Clean the whole area first, then run the machine and look again. Never run a hand along a pressurized hose to find it, because fluid escaping through a pinhole will go straight through skin and that is a serious injury.
Shut it down, get people clear, deal with the floor, and call 843-920-6959. Emergency calls are answered 24/7. Do not restart it to reposition it.
Losing Fluid
Call 843-920-6959 with the model and where the fluid is coming from.